I really like oysters, so much so that I'm writing a blog post (plus one on oyster shucking) devoted to my obsession with them. I can't say the first time I had an oyster it was life changing, but I certainly remember it and wondering why I was eating a cold booger. I kind of liken my experience to the first time having wine or even an IPA, it wasn't something most people just try once and become a die hard fan of, it is an 'acquired taste' or maybe even an 'acquired texture' for a lot of people. I can tell I'm really selling it now and you are dying to try one!
Fancy French Words
Similar to wine, the taste of an oyster is reflective of their terroir (also referred to as merroir for oysters) and will differ based on the environmental factors in the area that it is produced. This sounds fancy, but for full transparency, I do not have a trained palate to identify and differentiate all of the complex flavors, and sometimes I just default to "I just really like that one" - and I believe that is 100% okay! I have though noticed a pretty distinct difference in taste between most South Puget Sound and Hood Canal oysters.
So how can the merroir impact the flavor so much? Oysters are filter feeders and consume the particles and algae in their area (and remember they don't ever move - or at least the ones found here don't). The algae, minerals, and salinity will drastically vary depending on their location. For example, an oyster that lives near the mouth of a river will be exposed to the minerals that are deposited from that river, and the salinity will likely be much lower and may therefore have very different varieties and quantities of algae than elsewhere. Oysters generally prefer to be close to some source of fresh water so the watershed quality of that fresh water is essential to maintaining the quality of the oysters. I encourage you to do a taste test at some point and see if you can identify any differences - if you can't then you still just ate a bunch of delicious oysters anyways.
The other point of differentiation outside of the t(m)erroir, is the method they were grown. There are a few primary growth methods, most of which are actually fairly recent inventions, and the differing methods focus on reducing time to market, creating that 'cup' effect, and reducing brittleness of the shell. I'm not going to discuss the different methods here, as I'm more of a consumer, but it is really fascinating to read about the different techniques that are emerging.
Oyster Species
Now to the actual oyster varieties, almost all of the oysters you will find on beaches, restaurants, or farms in Washington are Pacific Oysters, which are originally from Japan. In general, if they are not explicitly called Kumamoto, Virginica, or Olympia you can assume they are a Pacific Oyster. Their names tend to reflect the location they were grown or how they were farmed (beach, tumbled, etc), but they could just be a random name chosen by the producer; e.g. Fanny Bay is not an oyster species, but the name of a Pacific Oyster farmed in Fanny Bay. There are really only 5 oyster species consumed in the US: Olympia, Pacific, Kumamoto, Atlantic (aka Virginica), and European Flat; with Pacific and Atlantic being the most common on West and East Coasts respectively.
The native oyster from this area is the Olympia which is a slow-growing, small oyster that is about the size of a silver dollar when mature. I've never seen an Olympia growing naturally on a beach, but you can purchase them from some of the oyster producers - Taylor Shellfish will sometimes have them in-stock at the farm store. It has a slightly metallic taste and is worth a try for the avid oyster eater. Pacific Oysters grow significantly faster and larger than the native Olympia oyster, and became the primary oyster in this region after the Olympia oyster was significantly over harvested.
How to eat:
There are endless ways to prepare and eat oysters, but I generally prepare them 4 ways:
Half shell - This is my preferred way of eating oysters. I usually eat plain or top with either lemon, horseradish + cocktail sauce, or a mignonette. If you like entertaining and eating oysters, I recommend purchasing oyster/seafood trays. They are fairly inexpensive and have been the most used serveware I own.
Grilled - depending on the size, I may chop them up and mix in onions, garlic, and sausage and grill. If they are more medium size (as opposed to large) I will top them with a compound butter and grill them. I personally struggle with the texture of really large cooked oysters.
Fried - this is generally how I prepare oysters that I harvest at the beach and take home after leaving their shell at the beach (as required by law - do not forget)
Stewed - I usually cook the stew similar to a clam chowder, but there are loads of recipes out there
When to eat:
There is a saying that you should only eat oysters in months that contain the letter 'R', but oysters can in fact be harvested year around in the PacNW. When harvesting oysters at a beach, do be sure to stay within the designated areas and use good judgement when assessing the safety of the oyster: if it is dehydrated, already open, or looks/smells off then discard. That said, there is always a risk associated with eating raw oysters, and if in doubt then cook them. I would also recommend being mindful about the weather, and if we've had a series of hot weather and mid-day, low tides I would recommend purchasing your oysters from a farmer as opposed to harvesting off the beach if you are planning on eating them raw. Many farm grown oysters today are suspended in cages in water, and the oysters have minimal (if any) exposure to the heat outside of the water. Oyster farmers are experts when it comes to the safety and quality of the oysters they produce.
When it comes to what meal to eat them with - I'm definitely in the camp that they are meant for all meals. Who can say no to an oyster and champagne brunch?!
Where to find them:
Harvesting:
The PacNW is home to some of the best shellfish in the world and you can easily purchase an annual shellfish license ($17.40 for WA residents in 2023) and harvest your own clams and oysters. There are many beaches in the Puget Sound and Hood Canal area where you can harvest clams and/or oysters, but be sure to check the WA Gov Shellfish Beaches site to check each beach's season. You will also want to verify day of that the beach is not closed due to any health concerns - which can occasionally happen.
Oyster Beach Recommendations (South Puget Sound and Hood Canal):
Belfair State Park
Dosewallips State Park
Oakland Bay Tidelands
Potlatch State Park
Triton Cove Tidelands
Twanoh State Park
Reminder: You are required by law to leave all oyster shells on the beach at the same tidal level you found them, so you will need to shuck them and either eat them directly on the beach or transfer the shucked oysters to a container if you are bringing them home.
If you aren't feeling as adventurous or would like some for grilling, you can easily pick up oysters from a local producer. Some also attend neighborhood farmer's markets, so you may be able to pick them up close to home.
To-Go Oysters -
Brady's Oysters (Aberdeen, WA) - oysters can be purchased to-go and they also offer other food that can be eaten there
Hama Hama Farm Store (Lilliwaup, WA) - located just off of 101 north of Hoodsport along the Hood Canal
Perkin's Family Farms (Olympia, WA) - open for pickup at the farm 1x/week, but you need to call and pre-order ahead of time
Taylor Shellfish Farm Store - There are two locations: Shelton, WA and Bow, WA (south of Bellingham). The Shelton, WA location is at the Taylor Shellfish HQ and functions primarily as a store as opposed to a restaurant or experience. The Bow, WA location is located on the water (with great views) and is more of a restaurant, but oysters can be purchased to-go. The Bow location does get VERY busy and has limited parking, so may be a bit more enjoyable during the mid-week and off-season.
Tom Farmer Oyster Co (Allyn, WA) - they have limited hours so check ahead
Your local Farmer's Market - many oyster farmers attend local farmers markets so keep your eye out!
Dine-In Oysters:
Chelsea Farms Oyster Bar (Olympia, WA) this restaurant and farm focuses on sustainable farming of shellfish. Besides their excellent oysters, they also serve high-quality and innovative dishes and cocktails. It's is probably my favorite restaurant on this list and is worth the trip to Olympia. I do recommend making reservations ahead of time.
Elliott's Oyster House (Seattle, WA) - this is really the OG of oyster bars in Seattle. It is located on a pier on the Seattle Waterfront and has probably the largest variety of oysters on this list because it is not related to a specific farm/purveyor. It is the most expensive dine-in oyster restaurant on this list, but is a 'required' PacNW oyster experience.
Hama Hama Oyster Saloon (Lilliwaup, WA) - located steps away from the Hama Hama Farm Store, the Oyster Saloon offers expansive views of the Hood Canal and tasty food. The saloon does get VERY busy during the summer months and reservations are recommended. I believe the reservations open up the week prior. You do have to pay money for the reservation, but it comes with reserved outdoor (dress appropriately) seating for 4-6 people and 2 dozen oysters. Check ahead of time to see what days of week and times the oyster saloon is open before making the trek. If there isn't availability or it isn't open there aren't a lot of other options nearby and you will get hangry.
Taylor Shellfish Oyster Bars (Seattle, WA) - there are 3 oyster bar locations in the Seattle area: Cap Hill, Lower Queen Anne, and Pioneer Square. It is a great option if you'd like to have variety, but don't have time for the drive. They also offer happy hour Mon-Fri.
Taylor Shellfish Samish Oyster Bar and Shellfish Market (Bow, WA) - The water views and outdoor patio dining make it an essential PacNW experience, but as mentioned above this location gets very busy so be prepared.
Walrus and the Carpenter (Seattle, WA) - raw bar specializing in oysters located in the Ballard neighborhood. They usually have a decent variety of locally farmed oysters, and bonus you can also get your steak tartare fix. The restaurant does not take reservations and can get pretty busy, so be prepared for a wait.
Disclaimer: I am not an oyster expert, I just really, really like oysters.
Next Blog: Oyster Shucking
Oyster shucking can at times feel intimidating, but with the right gear it is actually fairly easy. I've shown even the most reluctant friend how to shuck oysters and we are always taking turns being the 'designated oyster shucker' at dinner parties and BBQ's.
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